How to clean and maintain your rifle

After decades behind the trigger, here’s my quick rundown on how I keep my gear in check.

Pressure-pack cleaners
Pressure‑pack bore cleaners work, but they can be messy – I once ended up with foam in the receiver. A neater trick: have old cartridge cases bored out (or carefully modify one) to fit the muzzle, use clear office tape to build up the diameter if needed, then fit the pressure pack nozzle to the case. Let the foam sit 15-30 minutes, then patch it out – a single application will remove most of the black gunk. I follow with a standard copper cleaner, then leave the bore coated between trips with a 50/50 mix of Penetrene (rust prevention) and Hoppe’s No. 9 (residual copper removal).

Ultrasonic cleaners
Ultrasonics are excellent for cleaning cartridge cases and small parts. Home reloaders don’t need the large commercial tubs – a jewellery cleaner is ideal. Two eight‑minute cycles should do the job.

Commercial fluids work, but a cheap homemade solution is effective: in a 1L container mix 1 level teaspoon citric acid + 1 level teaspoon cream of tartar + a splash of household detergent, fill with water and shake. Use for 3-4 fills of your cleaner before replacing. Rinse parts in clean water and air‑dry. Always follow the ultrasonic and parts manufacturer’s guidance and avoid prolonged exposure of sensitive finishes.

How often to clean – load development & hunting
For load development I use 10 rounds per test: three-shot groups for top load and two descending sets, with the lowest load acting as a sighter. After those 10 shots I clean the rifle, then foul the bore with a single shot and let it cool before the next group. For hunting cartridges, I typically clean at the end of the day or after, say, 15 shots, although field cleaning isn’t always possible. A borescope helps decide when cleaning is actually needed; it can be an eye‑opener.

Bore guides
Bore guides are worth keeping in every cleaning kit. They square the rod, ensure solvent patches contact the bore walls correctly and stop stray solvent from dripping into the magazine or chamber. They’re inexpensive and reduce the risk of contamination or damage – pick the guide that matches your action.

Fouling shots
After a thorough clean, fire at least one fouling shot before serious shooting. The first shot from a cold, clean barrel often prints outside the subsequent group; a fouling shot stabilises the bore. We use a slightly reduced standard load and a serviceable projectile – accuracy improves once the barrel has that initial foul.

Bench tips & small items
• Paper towels: Keep on the bench to wipe the rod between passes and mop spills.
• Dies: Disassemble and run die parts through the ultrasonic for two short cycles, air‑dry, then lightly oil.
• Brushes: Ultrasonics work well for cleaning brushes – don’t oil them afterwards; let them dry naturally.

Plated carbon near the chamber
A hard plated carbon ring forms in the throat (first 6“ or so). Liquids won’t touch it – use a bore paste like Iosso. Pack a jag with paste, scrub with patches until they stop coming out jet black, then clean as usual with throttle cleaner or your normal solvent.